It has an above average number of houses preserved from the 19th century, some of which can be visited. There is a continuity of tourism here, since there is a folk music festival, with amateur performances held here every year. This was also true during the communist period, and it was here that much of the Bulgarian folk music that came out on the Balkanton label was recorded. Founded in 1952, the company was mainly dedicated to folk music and opera.

After a late lunch we continue on to Sofia which is anticipating a visit by George Bush beginning tomorrow. On arriving at the hotel we ask about security arrangements and are told they are to go into effect today, but, says the doorman, the mountains are still open, and I can’t figure out if this response is a recommendation for the weekend or a historical reflex related to foreign invasion. Our walk reveals a lot of barrier-building activity, the streets are emptier than usual and the restaurant owners are angry – within the security zone they are being forced to close on the weekend, the two days when they usually do their most business.